This post was intended to be a not-so-lengthy anecdote about my first go-round with surfing. Suffice to say, it’s a little bit longer than I intended. The story weighs in around 4,500 words. So grab some coffee or tea – or beer, if you’re one of my friends 😉
I would also like to say thank you to photographer John Cocozza for letting me use some of his awesome work to add a visual element to the story. If you click on any of his photos they will automatically link back to the page on his website containing that photo. Thanks, John, I really appreciate it.
I hope you will take the time (30 minutes or so) to read and enjoy this piece, and that it inspires you to lean into your fears, maybe doing something you have always wanted to do, yet couldn’t seem to find the nerve.